Variant Firearms[edit]
Firearms as presented in the Dungeon Master's Guide are very similar to other weapons; however, many believe that they should be entirely different so that they carry the true weight of their potential. This variant attempts to bring risk and reward back into pre-modern firearms.
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Firearms under this variant have a few mechanical differences compared to other weapons. The first is that they all have the loading property, except that it takes a number of rounds to reload them as detailed under their individual property, requiring a hand free during the time they are reloaded. A character with proficiency in the firearm knows how to reload and maintain their firearm, but does not automatically know how to fix it should it break from a misfire (see below), while a character without proficiency can generally figure out (or be told) how to shoot a loaded firearm, but does not have the requisite training to reload one, whether not knowing how much gunpowder is needed, or how much force is required to clean the barrel after each shot.
Second, each firearm automatically misfires on a natural 1 on attack, after which it requires a full minute to repair using Tinker's Tools (DC 10) before it can be used again. When a firearm misfires, you take damage as though you had been hit by the weapon and rolled minimum damage.
![Dmg Dmg](/uploads/1/2/6/1/126173872/132111836.jpg)
Third, whenever a firearm scores a hit and does damage, if the roll on the die is even, the character may choose to add another die of the same type to the damage dealt (which is not multiplied on a critical hit), though if a 1 is rolled for damage, the weapon misfires and deals no damage whatsoever. The character may continue adding dice of damage as long as they roll an even number, but each time they do, the misfire chance increases by one (two on the second die added, three on the third die added, and so on).
Lastly, proficiency with firearms is entirely under the purview of the DM based on how common they are in the particular setting. In a campaign where virtually everyone has a firearm, they might be simple weapons; in ones where they are rarer, they might be martial, and in campaigns where they are almost unheard of, they might require the Weapon Master feat to gain proficiency.
Firearm Types[edit]
Name | Cost | Damage | Weight | Properties |
---|---|---|---|---|
Pistol | 750 gp | 1d10 | 3 lbs | Firearm (range 20/80), loading (1d2+1 rounds) |
Musket | 1,000 gp | 1d12 | 10 lbs | Firearm (range 30/120), loading (1d3+1 rounds), two-handed |
D&d Firearms 5e
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Ghostwheelv |
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![D&d 5e Firearms Dmg D&d 5e Firearms Dmg](/uploads/1/2/6/1/126173872/720024482.jpg)
Author | Ghostwheel |
Identifier | 5e Variant Rule |
Rating | Undiscussed |
Summary | Firearms in the DMG are very similar to crossbows. This attempts to make them more different from other weapons. |
Title | Variant Firearms |
I know comparatively little about muskets but your statements about lower velocity are, generally, correct. Impact area varies wildly, but on average a musket ball is bigger than a modern bullet with significant overlap. However, I know quite a bit about modern firearms and you are seriously underestimating their ability to penetrate. 18 gauge steel is a 1 mm thick and while not all steel is created equal and neither are all bullets but unless you are using something like AR500 or you have light loads a .357 will care precisely not at all about 18 gauge sheet metal. A .357 revolver can also fire .38 Short Colt and .38 Special with no modification and people often use these lighter loads for target practice. Neither round is especially potent, but I would guess that they might be stopped by 18 gauge sheet steel. In fact, it's probably that a fast .22 would penetrate 18 gauge steel. A cheap hollow steel door has walls about 1mm thick and I'm willing to assume this guy knows what he's shooting at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl2MBRu9WlU
More .22 LR penetration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbEKKXU4bLo
If you'd really like, I can head out to the woods and put some holes in things for demo purposes. I don't own a .357, but a +p 9mm round should suffice as a decent stand in even if it is a bit slower if I can't borrow a .357.
1) work on your mathhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl2MBRu9WlU
More .22 LR penetration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbEKKXU4bLo
If you'd really like, I can head out to the woods and put some holes in things for demo purposes. I don't own a .357, but a +p 9mm round should suffice as a decent stand in even if it is a bit slower if I can't borrow a .357.
5e Firearms Dmg
2) I've done some destructive testing. My friends during college included a bunch of gun nuts
I've shot a .357 using round nosed police-standard lead ball (non-jacketed) at a steel plate of 18 gage - which is 25.4/18= 1.41 mm thick - and it didn't go through. I've seen .357 stopped by car doors, too... on older cars, where it was as thick as 18ga. In both cases, visible deformation, no penetration.
D&d Beyond
Factors that influence penetration include incidence angle (anything other than 90° increase both the skip chance and the effective thickness), specific metal composition, specific tempering, method of working (hammer-worked is different from rolled), amount of air traveled through (drag reduces bullet energy), bullet composition (straight lead penetrates less than FMJ), bullet shape, temperature of the metals, age and flexion history of the plate.Your 9mm probably will penetrate 1mm steel if shot within 5 yards and aimed dead on... because autopistol rounds are ususally jacketed. It also won't do much past it.
And a breastplate is seldom worn without quilt underneath. Yeah, it is gonna hurt. No, it's not going through. But the same is true of a sword.
Ignoring armor isn't the solution, especially since most firearm to body armor shots are going to be other than 90°.
Using armor as a damage reduction rather than pure hit/miss is the best way to simply represent firearms damage. It's also not the best D&D choice.